Home Airsoft Loadouts VFC Avalon + PTS | Black_Arc Airsoft | INSTALLATION

VFC Avalon + PTS | Black_Arc Airsoft | INSTALLATION

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VFC Avalon + PTS | Black_Arc Airsoft | INSTALLATION





Hello everyone, this is Howard from Black-ARC Airsoft We have an installation video for you today with various PTS parts on the VFC Avalon Calibur On the top left we have the PTS Griffin Armament M4SD-II flash hider For the pistol grip we will be comparing the angles on the EPG and EPG-C We’ll be using the EPS for the stock as it has a yuge compartment and can fit a wide array of batteries.

Let’s get started with the flash hider! The original flash hiders on these VFCs are pretty easy to remove. They’re not attached with a pin and the glue breaks free quite easily. Just find a tool to use a leverage and the flash hider should twist off.

The flash hiders are 14mm negative on these rifles. PTS includes a few thin washer that I use to fine tune the orientation of the flash hider as you tighten it down. Finish up this part by tightening the set screw on the bottom.

Now lets remove the stock. To do so you’ll need to pop open the battery compartment and remove the two tubes. After removing these parts this pin will be exposed and all you’ll have to do is to punch it out and the stock will slide off.

To mount the EPS on, simply slide on the stock and pull the lever down hard. The stock will then slide on to the buffer tube. Next up is the pistol grip. Like I mentioned, we have the EPG and EPG-C. The angle of the EPG-C is more vertical like a pistol, and I also think it looks more like the grips on a HK416 … and so we’ll be installing the EPG-C Opening the package you’ll find all the hardware needed inside.

The motor height adjustment screw from PTS has plastic inserts that keeps the height adjustment tight. The motor height adjustment screw from PTS has plastic inserts that keeps the height adjustment tight.

To remove the original pistol grip. Simply loosen the two hex screws and carefully unplug the motor from the gearbox. After removing the motor you’ll find two Philips screws deep in the grip. Use a longer screwdriver to back these out.

Normally when installing the EPG-C you’ll need to feed both positive and negative wires to the front hole. However, since the factory wiring isn’t long enough I’ll try to feed them into the front and back hole and see if the alignment works out OK.

When reinstalling the motor, ensure that the positive is at the bottom left in this orientation. Usually the positive wire needs to loop around the backside of the grip and be connected. However given the limited space in this specific grip, we will bunch the wire incorrectly in the front and see if it works out OK.

Lastly secure the two hex screws on the pistol grip cover. Be sure to adjust your motor height. You want to aim for minimum gear whine as you pull the trigger. What I personally do is to tighten the motor all the way, then back out in half turn increments to get the proper range.

Once you’re in the sweet spot, fine tune it even more and you’re set. Next up is the EPF. Since this accessory is not a keymod piece. We’ll need to add a keymod segment first. This is part is pretty simple, loosely tighten the keymod hardware on the rail segment and fit onto your rail.

Then tighten after you have slid it into position. The last part is the M4SD-K suppressor. Currently this is just an aesthetic piece until I upgrade the inner barrel and use it to cover the extra length.

If you have any questions, please leave it in our comment section below. Thanks for watching and we’ll see you next time!





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