Home Airsoft Reviews G&G PCC-45 S-AEG (PCC.45 SMG mit ETU/Mosfet/FSWS/Stroke) 6mm Airsoft/Softair (DE, EN...

[Review] G&G PCC-45 S-AEG (PCC.45 SMG mit ETU/Mosfet/FSWS/Stroke) 6mm Airsoft/Softair (DE, EN Subs)

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[Review] G&G PCC-45 S-AEG (PCC.45 SMG mit ETU/Mosfet/FSWS/Stroke) 6mm Airsoft/Softair (DE, EN Subs)





Subtitles by Sven aka Colt1911 Welcome to our review of the sexy G&G PCC-45. Looks like it´s based on a modernized UMP. The design is like on a LWRC-SMG45 Meaning the M-LOK design elements are continuing into the receiver.

The gun is new designed with a well thought thru battery compartment fully ambidextrous, cool QSC system and Gen.4 G&G ETU. We will take a closer look! Have fun! Included with the gun is the typical G&G wallpaper, a good and detailed manual & instruction sheet, even in German.

Even total beginners will be able to understand the manual, as really everything is explained, even the QSC system. Furthermore, there is a .45 mag, a M-LOK QD sling point, an endless cleaning rod and a tube speed loader, for what reason people are still manufacturing something like that.

And obviously the sexy PCC-45. The PCC-45 is manufactured by G&G in Taiwan. Due to coming from Taiwan, the gun is a bit pricier than the China made ones. German regulations and marking blabla! It´s 735mm long unfolded and 495mm folded 360mm picrail on top and 4 M-LOK positions left/right 2 M-LOK positions underneath The outer comes with a14mm CCW thread The inner standard AEG barrel is 255mm long with a diameter of 6,08mm 2495g / 5.

5lb with mag but w/o BB´s or battery With the Gen.4 ETU comes a battery check, cycling check and with Mosfet I would replace the mini Tamiya plug with a Dean plug Compared to the EU standard version with 1-1.

1J, this is the high Velocity version with 1.4-1.5J. Due to the good QSC, there is a wide range of energy options with this gun Anything from 1J (indoors) up to 1.5J is no problem at all. General information’s I am trying to get as much in the general information as possible Trying to give you a good look on this beauty here.

Outer and hand guard are made from aluminium, the receiver is made from high quality nylon plastic It´s robust and well made with a good wall thickness. On the nylon made stock are cheek area and stock end cap are made from rubber Stock can be folded and in held in place by lifting it a bit.

Unfolded, the stock is held in place firmly w/o any play. Due to the nylon, the stock can be tilt a bit, but that´s OK. The PCC-45 is good model for left-handers, as it is fully ambidextrous. Charging handle, bolt catch, fire selector are fully ambidextrous.

In addition there the front QD sling point can be changed to either side. The one point attachment point at the end of the receiver is made from steel Unfortunately, this attachment point is not switchable to the other w/o turning the charging handle spring guide and the connected pins.

AS mentioned before, the design is close to a LWCR SMG, but the magwell is much bigger, due to the V2 gearbox. The G&G ETU still has the external Mosfet like on the G2 gearbox we all know. The Mosfet board is located between the stock bracket and the GB.

If G&G would have designed the board as other manufacturers, with all parts in the GB, the receiver could have been around 25mm shorter. Therefore, the PCC is as long as a 10.5” M4/416. Due to that design, the distance shoulder to grip is pretty long.

We would have preferred a bit shorter back end of the gun The charging handle works great for left and right handers. Due to it´s design, it can easily be caught up on your pouches or PALS webbing. Luckily, the side you don´t need, can be removed easily.

We´ll touch base on the nice rotary design Hopup unit later. Flip up sights are there as well as the standard 14mm CCW thread. Regarding the sound, there is always a noticeable sound of the nylon body, when the piston hits the cylinder head.

But due to the M130 spring with a 13 teeth sector gear, there is at least no singing noise from the spring. The stock handle spring on the other hand, is singing noticeable. Squeezing in a bit of foam in the spring solves this issue.

Easy fix with a high impact on the sound. You can even us a tissue to delete this annoying sound. Let´s get to inserting the battery into the gun. G&G did a great job on the battery compartment, which is above the barrel Compared to a VFC MCX e.

g., you wont see the battery, as there is a closed battery housing. There is a cut out in the hand guard to open the lever. Due to the tight fitment, you need to strongly pull the hand guard off. Above the barrel is the battery compartment with the connector.

So, just place týou battery in the housing, squeeze in the wiring and re-mount the hand guard. Due to the size of the compartment and the Tamiya connector, I couldn´t fit anything bigger than a 1000mAh LiPo.

With some soldering and wiring capabilities, the connector could be re-located below the compartment to make 1450mAh LiPo fit. Or just buy a second 1000mAh 3s LiPo and you´re good to go. OK, let´s get to the sound and the trigger response of the system.

I haven´t shimmed the gun nor have I made any adjustments to the motor adjustment screw. Everything you will hear is straight out of the box. There is a bit gear screaming, that is transported via the nylon body.

This is really subject to your personal licking, whether it is disturbing or not. With BB´s it´s a bit better. For the choosen 18k motor and the M130 spring the trigger response is good, but would be better with the 25k motor.

When re-mounting the hand guard, the fitment is really tight, and hand guard and upper receiver fit together again perfectly. After closing the lever again, there is no play or wobble in the connection.

The QSC is designed pretty well, but not perfect. After folding the stock, unscrew both 3mm Allen-Key screws. As said before, the part of the ETU board is mounted in this area, so keep an eye on that.

When pushing the wiring and the board aside, you see the spring guide. Take a 8mm Allen-Key, remove the spring, insert a new one and your done. Obviously, the wiring is shitty placed fro that work. Especially, when re-assembling the stock bracket, you need to watch out for the wiring and the board.

It´s time that G&G is changing to a fully GB internal design. Other than that, the QSC is easy to reach. Due to the internal micro-switch design, you can trigger the gun on the last 2-3mm. The trigger spring isn´t that hard, so you still can feel the micro-switch.

Not much to say about the mag. It can hold 112 rds and looks pretty nice. It´s made from a smokey transparent plastic with 3 dimensional fake cartridges. Compared to AEG M4 mags it´s a bit pricey with around 35€.

As with most newer G&G mags, there is follower that will feed the last BB to your gun. As I don´t have any UMP mag handy, I can´t tell whether they would fit or not. If I get some more info on mag compatibility, I will leave a note in the video description.

Softairstore made me aware of, that the mag needs a bit of push to snap in. It was that way in the beginning, but after shooting test, and doing the chrono test, it fits perfectly. When snapped in place, it fits perfectly w/o any wobble.

We´ll now take a closer look on materials, quality and fitment. There is no o-ring between outer and cap nut. So don´t overdo it, when tighten it. Gas block is nicely made and the outer has no wobble at all.

grease the gun or want to replace parts later in its life. The lever mechanism clamps the CNC made hand guard well and secure in place. On the top, the hand guard is centered similar to a HK416 hand guard.

It´s properly machined, but the lower cuts could have been a bit smaller, to avoid the sharp edge that has been created. On the M-Lok you can mount whatever accessory you want. I think the receiver is really nicely designed as it looks a feels really good.

The lower section and grip are similar to an AR15, with a nice resting area for the trigger finger. Enough space even when gloves are used, still the gun doesn´t feel bulky. The ergonomics are pretty nice.

But the quality of the receiver, made from nylon fiber is really good, great wall thickness and pretty good fitment. The charging handles are made from steel with a plastic coating. When pulled, the fake bolt will be held and gives easy access to the HUU.

The trigger spring load is exactly where it needs to be. Strong pre-load, but weak enough to feel the micro-switch. Fire selector is ambidextrous, but has a very little play on the left hander side. The selector is flattened so the bolt release is easy to reach.

You can switch both selectors from one side to other for Left handers. Ootb, the fire selector moves a bit too easy to my licking. If you as well don´t like it that weak, give the spring below the selector more pre-load.

Explained marking are only valid for Germany Steel made one point attachment point, big enough for any hook. There is a little misalignment between receiver and stock bracket. By unscrewing the bracket and loosen the attachment point screws, this can be centered, so it´s not that obvious.

After centering the bracket, tighten the bracket screws prior to the attachment point screws. The stock has a rubber piece as cheek rest as well as for the stock end plate. Only thing is the big distance from stock end to grip, especially, when you are not 1.

8m or taller. If you´re playing your AR with the stock in 1st or 2nd position, this might be a bit to long. A bit of twist in the stock is due to the design and the material but no play in the hinge of the stock.

It still is solid and robust though. Regarding the disassembly, there is no witchcraft involved. Just keep the wiring and the circuit board in mind. First unscrew the stock bracket. when putting it back together, there is enough room for wiring in the bracket.

At least, G&G wired in some connections, so the wiring can be disassembled easily. The connections are chosen in a way, that makes in impossible to put them together in a wrong way. IF you need to take of the board in total, you need to cut the heat shrink to avoid damage to the plug.

But usually not necessary. Next is to remove the attachment point with a 2mm Allen-Key. If you run into issues due to the very short screws, just use longer ones. The thread in the pins is deep enough for longer screws.

The charging handle spring rod is located in the not-centered hole in the upper pin. So this spring rod needs to be pushed out, before removing the upper pin. To disassemble the receiver, push out the front pin, as with any AR15.

You don´t necessarily need to remove the hand guard for this. The pin is not fully removable and held in place in the lower. When removing the upper, the hand guard lever will fall off. You will notice quite some spring power from the HUU.

There is nicely build in channel for the wiring. Remove the HUU together with the inner barrel. If you want to install a Titan or similar, the wiring needs to be reworked. Each of the charging handles has its own 1.

5mm headless screw. With removing one of them, you can remove the side of the charging you don´t want to have. This way you can avoid that the charging handle will be caught on vest or pouches. On the lower receiver remove the motor plate first.

Remove the motor wiring, both cables are wired to the back side of the grip. It´s important to re-wire the motor the exactly as it was. Otherwise you most likely will run into issues when resembling the end plate.

Take a bigger Phillips and dismount the grip by unscrewing the two screws. Take a bigger Phillips and dismount the grip by unscrewing the two screws. Now we need to take out both fire selectors and the bolt catch.

For whatever reason, there are different screws on each side on the fire selectors. When taking of the selector lever, watch out for the little spring and steel ball. When putting this back together, keep in mind the alignment of the selector levers and the gears on the gearbox, so everything is aligned well.

As said before, the two selector levers can be switched from side to side. So the flattened lever can be on your preferred side. Remove the gearbox pin. What I forgot to mention, bigger the rear pin needs to be removed as well.

Last but least, remove the right side of the bolt catch. Other side can remain as is. Just push out the bolt catch pin. Now the gearbox can be removed. The small silver shining lever can be left inside, as it is held by spring.

Just place it like shown prior to re-assembling the gearbox. Finally, we´re opening up the gearbox. When re-assembling the gearbox, watch closely on the alignment of the fire selector gears. They do have a certain form that fits into the selector levers, make sure they are positioned the right way to avoid issues after putting everything back in pace.

To remove the spring you need an 8mm Allen-Key. Remove the shaft connecting the smaller fire selector gears, by just pulling of the gear. On the other side, you need to lift the bigger gear a bot to clear room to remove the smaller one.

Last step is to remove all screws holding the gearbox together. Good thing is, that all the parts stay in place when opening the shell. When you are familiar with G&G internals, you will notice that the PCC is using the cheaper CM internals instead of the GC internals.

I will take that into account when it comes to the value for the price of the PCC. In this chapter I will give some hints in upgrades, but keep in mind with opening the shell, you will loose your warranty.

The shell is the current G&G G2 version with V2 measurements. There are some minor differences to a standard V2 you´ll need to know. First of, the G2 or the G2H are one of the best ootb shells out there.

Thickened in the front end, what requires a tapered taped plate. Nice radii in all corners of the cylinder cut out. Overall the shell is pretty strong and well manufactured. Still the ETU is separated into two pieces instead of one drop-in chipset.

The capabilities of the ETU are pretty good, but the layout in two pieces is just not state of the art anymore. In case you want to update the gears, keep in mind that not all gears are compatible with the G2 shell.

The G2 has 8mm ball bearings all around, but there are held in place properly. Bevel gear and sector gear bearing are fully planar installed. The spur gear bearing meanwhile is sticking out 0.3-.04mm.

As it is the same on the other side, the space between the shells is limited and can clamp the spur gear w/o any shim being added. I was only able to fit in Prometheus gears in my gun. Not that big of a deal, as the G&G gears are pretty good anyway.

The material circled with the screwdriver will get in your way, when you want to install a Titan EFCS or similar. If this is to criticize is hard to tell, as the gun performs good ootb. The ETU has a mechanical micro-switch, that allows fast triggering.

The system gives a good feedback of the trigger breaking point. Similar to the Begadi Core or the ASCU systems. Inner diameter is 6.08mm and it takes standard AEG buckings.. Other system read the cycle status directly via the cam on the sector gear.

This can be a disadvantage, when the appropriate switch isn´t exactly in the right spot. As G&G is using the standard cut off lever, the system requires less tight tolerances and still reliable check the cycles.

I personally think, this design is better compared to other systems. A big plus of G&G shells is the wiring, the wiring channels and the pinion cover. The gears are well known standard G&G gears and are very good.

In this case as 18:1 gear ratio and 13 teeth sector gear. This provides fro the barrel length more than enough air volume. When well shimmed the G&G Gears can be very quiet and they are long lasting. I wouldn´t recommend to swap the gears.

They are excellent. As the PCC is carrying the CM internals, you´ll only get the 18k motor and not the Ifrit 25k motor. The Ifrit motor would have provided a snappier trigger response. My test gun came with a pinion to bevel gear fitment with too much play what caused a slight screaming.

The factory shimming is pretty good. All three gears do have a minimal play, but its OK. Mainly due to a play of the bearings in the shell. Only gear where I could add a 0.1mm shim is the sector gear.

A bit disappointing is the piston in regards to the price of the gun. Its a plastic piston with only one steel tooth, just like in the cheap Raider guns. When looking at the prices of a high quality piston, the gun would have been maybe 3-4€ more in price.

In 2021 this should be standard. No idea whether the piston head in red is a from different material then the black ones, but the blacks one tend to break in the front ring section. For the given energy its OK, but high quality looks different.

This continues on the cylinder head. Cheap plastic version. The 21.3mm nozzle is standard plastic too without o-ring. The overall sealing of the components is OK, but not 100%. With a better system sealing, G&G could gone down in spring power, which would have improved the overall system.

To achieve the energy of 1.4-1.5J, G&G went on with an estimated M130 spring. The advantage is that stiff springs don´t make singing noises. The spring guide of the QSC again is very good. Its user friendly, easy to reach and anything from 1-1.

5J is possible. Overall, the system is good all rounder in the range up to 50m. The 4 QSC fixation points are made from steel and the guide has a ball bearing. Luckily, G&G spents the PCC their very good nylon rotary style HUU.

It´s easy to adjust click by click. I think it´s actually the best factory HUU on the market. There is definitely no need for a Maxx HUU or something else. The sealing to the 21.3mm nozzle is very good as well.

Inner barrel is 255mm long and made from brass. The patch cut out is only 4.8mm, so TNT or Maple Leaf MR buckings will not fit. But those long range buckings are useless in that gun anyway. Teh more standard buckings will fit, but aren´t really needed The factory bucking is getting the job done.

The V-shaped bucking is good for 0.25g, with 0.28g the drop starts at 50m. If you need more pressure on the hop, change the tensioner to one w/o hole. The Maple Leaf Omega Tensioner would be a good alternative as well.

So, out of the box for 0.25g BB´s and the range this gun is made for leave it as it is. Overall, the hopup system with the HUU is doing what it is supposed to do Let me finish with my 2 cents in the PCC.

Let´s start with what´s good on the gun The overall quality of materials and fitment is excellent. Next is a summarized point of the overall handling of the gun It´s lightweight, slim, good grip comfort and perfect for low to mid range airsoft.

Another pro is the QSC system which is easy to reach and user friendly. This increases the all round talents of the gun even more. The gun is equipped with the ETU system, so 11.1v LiPo´s are no problem.

The hopup system fully satisfize the needs of the energy and ranges the gun us meant for. Especially the HUU is very good with no need for any upgrade. Bucking and tensioner, might be another thing. Last but not least, the PCC is fully ambidextrous.

First neutral rated point are the internals. There is a need to split this point. One thing are the low end CM16 internals like piston, cylinder head and nozzle. In regards to the energy the internals are OK, but in regard to to the price, that is totally different story.

If the model hits the store with over 300€, I would rate them as not sufficient fro the price. An update that reached me meanwhile is that softairstore.de will update the PCC to the Ifrit 25k motor.

Nest neutral point is that G&G still don´t mount their good ETU fully enclosed in the shell. Especially on PCC G&G could have shortened the receiver by 25mm, which is a lot in this case. Hope that the Gen.

5 of the ETU will be fully internal Last point is the sound. On the HV version there is only the stock release botton spring making a singing noise But due to the nylon receiver you always get this chattering sound.

That´s it. I don´t have a real point to criticize. I like the design, the internals are Ok-ish, but as I don´t have the final selling price available, I can´t give a rating on the value for the price as of now.

In the EU the model is priced at 300€, plus the German legal stuff on top, so it will most likely be higher priced. Anything above 350€ would be too expensive in regards of the chosen internals. In all, its a good gun with a nice design, good engineered and well manufactured.

As always, any questions, additions or comments, leave them in comment section below. If you liked the video, please leave a LIKE and subscribe or join the channel. I´ll see you soon on the next review.

CU and bye bye!





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