– Okay, I’m now gonna demonstrate the disassembly and reassembly of the G&P Mk23 Stoner 63. This version happens to have the SMP engine in it, but the assembly and disassembly procedure would be similar, even with a fusion engine installed.
All right, so the first thing I’m gonna want to do is start by taking out the box mag mechanism, and removing all the external FCU parts here. So I’ll go ahead and disconnect the box mag, disconnect the hop-up, slide the whole box mag mechanism out.
Actually, I keep forgetting, I need to snap off the quick feed piece. This piece here is what’s used to allow the box mag to be loaded very quickly, slides back and forth, locks into place. Instead of having to feed the BBs on the far side, you can just pour them into the opening here.
So let’s go ahead and remove the box mag, set that to the side, and then come here and remove the box mag carriage, loosen that lever and this whole section pops right off, set that aside. All right, then I’m gonna start by taking the electronics off so it doesn’t get damaged.
And I’m also going to now open up the stock and take some electronics out from the back. This stock has two screws that hold it in place. It uses a 3-mm screw (mumbling) What I’m gonna remove from back here, this is the trigger control unit, and I’ll just remove the three connectors that hook to it and set that aside as well.
All right, actually I’m gonna take this. This is the Y adapter, which allows one battery to power both the FCU and the box mag, so we’ll set that aside. Okay, so we’ll start by taking off the stock. Let’s see, it’s usually easier to unscrew it from this side, and then I tap that down just a little bit after I unscrew it partially, it comes out, this pulls out, and the whole stock can come right off, and you can carefully pull the three wires out the back, and we’ll set the stock aside.
All right, next we’re going to go ahead and take off the barrel. The barrel has to come off for the engine to be removed from the gun, so unfortunately there’s quite a few parts that have to be taken out to do that.
First we’ll take off the hand guard. Once that’s removed, you can then remove the fake charging handle here, it’s easier to use a little wrench on that. That comes off. Okay, then we wanna remove the two side bolts here, these two little bolts on either side.
All right, they have little holes on the side there, by the way. If you use a small little key you can actually fit them into the side and you can rotate them if they’re really tight. Those are removed.
Now we wanna take off the top lid. Here’s the same thing, I partially undo one side, tap it down, and then finish it off, and it usually makes it a lot easier to extract the whole bolt here. This top part comes off completely, and now we need to take off the feed guide here, and there’s one screw that holds that in place.
Now once that screw is out, this feed guide comes off. Not quite done yet. You still have to, now, remove this upper heat-shield, and in order to do that, it helps to use a little punch. Now we have to take this cylinder out, or sleeve, and just a little bit of tapping here, and the sleeve will come right out.
There you go. Then you lift this up and remove this spring, and finally you have one last screw for the heat-shield at the top. Okay, that’s off. Use a simple tool like this, pop this up, and the top heat-shield comes off.
Almost there. Two more screws. Now that you’ve basically taken everything off the top and the bottom, there are two screws remaining that hold the barrel in place. There’s a small 2-mm screw up here, a 2-mm head screw to remove that, and then this one in the back here is a larger screw.
It’s really the main screw that holds this barrel in place. Use a 2.5-mm hex key. That comes out. Okay, with all those screws removed the barrel comes out, pops out, and now you could service the hop-up and barrel.
The hop-up is removed by pushing it in and rotating it. It rotates one of these ways. It’ll pop out, there it goes, this way. The whole barrel comes out. You can actually rotate it back in and it clicks in place.
I had an extra BB in there. Okay, barrel is taken out, let’s set that aside. Now we just need to remove the engine to service it. We’ll start by taking off the grip. This set-up has the amped grip line.
Take off the motor plate screws. I usually try to put the amped grip line on the Stoner 63, because when the gun is sitting upright it tends to sit on the grip and on the box mag, and if you use standard macro line or grip connect, it’ll actually either kink the standard macro line, or it’ll dig a grip connect typically into the dirt, so it’s nice to have something durable and flexible like a grip line down here at the bottom.
All right, we’ve got the motor plate screws out. Pop the motor plate off, and then you have screws to hold the grip in place, and there are four screws down in here. All right, once you’ve loosened all four screws, with the grip line you just pull the grip up, and it’ll pop the grip line off, along with the grip and the screws.
One last screw to go. On the back, there is a screw that holds the motor in place, or the engine in place, and I’ve changed it out from being a standard slotted screw to one that uses a hex key, ’cause that’s just easier to deal with.
That screw comes out, it’s a 5-mm screw. Set these tools away, set them in the right place. And then, the engine will just come out of the gun. It comes straight out. Here you go. These are the two wire harnesses that go to the back for the power and the linkage to the I/O port.
So let’s set that aside, and set the little receiver over there, the main body aside. Here we have the SMP mounted inside the gear box. This one was cut to see if I could take this part off to extract the engine easier while it was in the gun.
It just turned out it didn’t work, not enough room to do it. But, to disassemble this, it’s pretty straight-forward. You just pop the front part off here, the hop-up support block, and then you remove the screws right at the top here.
There’s three screws, and then you have the FCU support block. I’m gonna go ahead and take that off. I’ve got a longer screw in place for that, but that comes right off. And now the plate should pop right out.
Now to get this out of here, ’cause I didn’t quite cut it far enough back here, I obviously could take off the entire gearbox shell, I suppose I could demonstrate that, but just a few more screws, the whole thing comes out, but just to get this out of here you could, it’s actually easier, as it turns out, to loosen these two screws here on the side, and that’ll allow this to sort of rotate, just like that.
It allows this part up here in the front to rotate while it pulls out, and now you can actually extract the whole engine. Disconnect the connector here, and this thing will pull right out. But, for just the point of maintaining, or say we wanted to lubricate the nozzle, it’s as simple as undoing the front banjo screw here, the banjo fitting, and since I’ve already loosened those two side screws, this comes right off, and here’s the nozzle, and we could reapply lubrication to the nozzle, get this nice and goopy here.
All right, and then we’ll go ahead and put this back together again. Insert this back into the front cylinder, reattach the front cylinder here, and I’m only gonna loosely attach these two screws, because I wanna be able to turn it again.
I’ll tighten it up afterwards. Lay it on its back here for a second and attach the front banjo valve. Okay, and now we’re gonna go ahead and sort of fit this back in here. Does it rotate? Let’s see if I can get this to go back in place.
There we go, and get that to snap right in place. Once that’s locked in place, then you can tighten up these two screws, one on each side. Okay, and then put the plate back on. So it makes it a little bit easier by having this cut plate, but it’s not too far of a stretch to go ahead and take out the whole gearbox top.
Then I will reattach these screws here, one on each side of the FCU mount plate. Reattach the mount plate here, use this longer screw. There we go. Back together again. Let’s go ahead and mount this block back on here.
There’s little guiding slots on the gearbox right there and on this side, so this sort of locks right into place. I milled this out, so there’s a hole up here in the front so the wire harness goes all the way to the back into the stock cleanly.
Also required a little bit of milling back here to make it a clean hole to get through the back of the gearbox. It was just easier than having the wires on the outside. This makes it go into the lower receiver much easier.
Okay, back to reassembling it. When inserting the gearbox, or engine back into the gun, make sure you put these other two wire harnesses up in here through the bottom and out, and hold them up to the side on the top.
The little white connector for the GPIO, make sure that’s here, and make sure this smaller, it’s actually the female connector for the FCU, it’ll say FCU on the connector, goes up on this side. And you wanna insert the engine and hold these connectors to the side here and it should snap right into place, and make sure that there is no binding on these wires, that they can actually move, before you fasten everything else down.
Start by putting the back screw back in first. Use a 3-mm hex key on this particular screw. Okay, once that’s in place, check and make sure the fire select is easy to move and not bound on anything. All right, then we’ll reverse the process and put the grip back on, reattach the four screws.
Okay, the grip is back in place. I’m gonna go ahead and attach the amped grip line here. And then the motor plate goes over that, the two motor plate screws. Okay, engine is in place. Now we can go ahead and reinstall the barrel, and we’ll go ahead and put the stock on last.
Barrel goes on, sort of drop this down into place right over the nozzle. Okay, underneath you wanna get a screwdriver, or a tool here to line the fake charging handle up. See, that guides it and puts it into the track there so you don’t get it bound on anything.
And then I usually start with the large screw back here. Let’s get the right tool here. So this locks the barrel in place. All right, once that’s there we’ll use one for the front. A relatively small screw up there.
This actually locks the barrel in place with just those two screws, but we’ll put the other decoration screws on here. We’ve got these side screws here we can tighten them a little bit, and put a little tool in that and just slightly tighten it.
But do not over-torque that, because these are very easy to strip out. So you just sort of put these on here and then just lightly tighten them beyond hand-tight. There you go. Okay, let’s go ahead and reinstall the top heat-shield.
These lock into the front, this goes down, and we have a screw that goes in here. Attach the screw, replace the spring, hold that down in place. Now you’ve gotta get this collar, and you insert this collar into there.
and just like what we did before, I use a little punch to sort of punch this down until it’s in there, and then I use a screwdriver right here to leverage this until it’s just a little bit even on both sides.
There, it’s showing up on either side of that. Now I can go ahead and install the upper plate, and install the top cover. And we’ll put the top cover in place. This is the one that uses the bolts with the shoulders on them.
Okay, now that that’s in place, turn it upside down, and I’m gonna go ahead and install the hand guard Hand guard also hooks right up here on the front by these two hooks up here, so you can hook that in and slide it backward.
Make sure that the front is firmly attached. I’m actually going to, actually, before I put this on, I got the order wrong here, you wanna put this fake charging handle on in place. Okay, fake charging handle is in.
Now slide this in place, make sure the front is locked, take this pin, insert it here, hand-tighten that. We’ll finish by adding the stock. Just guide the three wires through the back. Mount the stock in place.
Now we’ll go ahead and turn this over here. Put the final piece in. That needs a little bit of assistance. A couple taps, and the stock is screwed in place. Now we can attach the MCU. Just match up the words here.
There’s the box, and box, go together. That goes right to the box mag. This is the TCU connector, and this says TCU. That is for the GPIO port. And then we have the FCU battery and the FCU goes into the Y adapter for the power.
I’m gonna go ahead and attach the battery so we can test this out once I’ve got the FCU attached. There we go. I’ve got that upside down. Put the stock on there. I’m only gonna partially attach the stock for now, so it just doesn’t pop off.
Okay, now that that’s in place, the last thing I add on here is the FCU. The FCU has got velcro on the bottom of it. It’ll lock right in place, right there. The wire harness plugs right in. The GPIO connector, I usually go right underneath, and it goes into the GPIO port, and then you connect the FCU battery.
And that’s in place. Sort of tuck that underneath our little FCU shelf. Good to go. There you go, locks down. Now we’re gonna go ahead and attach the box mag carriage. It hooks in place there, locks down.
Make sure that that’s real solid. And to attach the box mag you actually open up the carriage on this side, and you open up the lid, and the box mag slides down in place. You take this, and it clips right down on there.
Close the magazine feed, and close the lid, and then take the top part here and clip it in place. Quick fill. And let’s see, semi and full auto, with a safety lever right here. (mechanical whirring) So that’s semi, it automatically winds the box mag.
(faster whirring) Go to full auto, you can hear that. The box mag is winding as it’s shooting. I can actually hook up the air, though I don’t believe there’s any BBs in the box mag, and we’ll go ahead and give this a shot.
(rapid clicking) There you go, the Stoner 63.