Home Airsoft Loadouts 🔫Mauser 98K G980 G&G – REVIEW AIRSOFT

🔫Mauser 98K G980 G&G – REVIEW AIRSOFT

135
0
🔫Mauser 98K G980 G&G – REVIEW AIRSOFT





Hello everyone and welcome to this new airsoft video review. Today, I have the honor to present to you the Mauser 98K from G&G. This replica was released in 2011, as indicated by the marking on the right side, where we have the serial number with the date of manufacture integrated in it.

Same principle as on the Springfield than at G&G which I have already been able to present to you previously. Yes, there are a lot of common points between these two rifles, so we find the same kind of faults! I bought it secondhand because I had the opportunity to buy it! (french word joke) You have 4 hours, calculators are not allowed.

So I was able to get it for 300€ with a magazine and a sling. And since I’m crazy, I added an original wood (post-war of course) and I adapted it on this replica. And the wood I got it for 100€ from an acquaintance whom I salute BTW, he will recognize himself! He sold it to me second-hand and it was already a little prepared to be put on a Mauser Tanaka/PPS.

Result: I present a 400€ baby. But if one day I sell it, it won’t be at that price. But anyway, I won’t sell it anytime soon, otherwise we will have the team “ouin ouin” which will land. Yes the famous team “ouin ouin” which finds that everything is too expensive, and which doesn’t know manual work, that which makes bulbs, and who uses the material too.

So they will reproach me “oh it’s too expensive, you only think of the money.” Return subscribers money, return money! For the famous Team Ouin Ouin to be satisfied, I would have to put this baby with a scope at the price of a DBoy.

.. So there are several versions of this replica, the three versions are independent, there are two that can go together, but there I have big doubts. The first version is this one, gas, then we have a 2nd version with CO2 and a third called Shell Ejecting, which allows to load stripper clips with a BB’s per false cartridge, and also works with gas.

Note that the one with ejector shells has a huge G&G (Guay and Guay) marking on the toner, which is absolutely filthy. The concern is not found here, fortunately! In fact we have a nice mix between the Mauser from Tanaka and the Springfield from G&G.

I say that because we have the same markings as on the Tanaka, with the same serial number; and we have the same types of magazines as on the Springfield G&G. With the same kind of disadvantages. We have a capacity of 9 BB’s, against 10 for the Tanaka.

Too bad, the 10th would have been appreciated. To stay on an even number. I am MANIC! To refill with gas, we are on the same system as on the Springfield G&G. It’s necessary to remove the front part, to do this, there is a small button here mounted on a spring.

This part can be found in spare parts, since a gas load makes it possible to shoot several loading shafts like this one. We are on 2 minimum. Once you have access to the valve, you will have to load using your bottle which will be placed upside down.

Be careful, we may have a small problem with the plate here which can potentially block during filling. There, it touches! But really, pay attention to the length of your rod. Or you can use an extension, or remove the plate by removing the tiny allen screw.

So small it will take a special key to handle it. It’s too small to be on the current multitool. Multitool, I don’t like that word… But it’s better than the allen key swiss army knife, right? Well, I’m talking about this kind of stuff.

Here I am on the smallest of stems, and it’s still too big. It doesn’t go through. For the CO2 magazine, same principle except that we will have here a screw that will have to be unscrewed to put the cartridge in it afterwards to close.

By avoiding using the small screwdriver that we have there because it’s too thin. This is zamak, so it’s going to be bad. So once you’ve filled your gas magazine, we’ll put our well back in here and it’s going to fit.

And finally we can fill in BB’s. The magazine will have a large prominent valve on the back, and the downside is that if you insert your magazine like this, when you are inserting your magazine, gravity will do its job (especially since the magazine is heavy) and it will press the valve! Already it’s boring to reload with gas because you have to dismantle everything, if you also press your magazine when you insert it.

.. You’ll never get out of it. To do this, it will be necessary to open the bolt and get to the horizontal, quite simply. If I say that the bolt must be opened, it’s not for nothing: you cannot handle the magazine if the bolt is closed.

And so as I said, you will be able to shoot twenty BB’s with a single gas load. Note that the CO2 magazines, for the CO2 version, are a little too powerful… I have a very big doubt on the compatibility of the CO2 magazines with this replica, which is only intended for gas, and seeing that I don’t have it, I can’t tell you too much in fact.

In any case, about regularity, maybe the CO2 version will be a little better than that… we will come to it later. A sling will be provided in the kit, a G&G sling stamped G&G. Obviously, change it, because the G&G, it’s engraved on the buckle.

Yes guys, we saw that you like to put your markings everywhere. Would it be possible, even G&G employees have a tattoo so that they can identify that it’s their from G&G…? Originally, the main external weakness of this replica will be the cleaning rod, which is long like that, with a thread that will be long like that.

Like your d*ck. And in the end, at the first annoyance, or at the first stack, it will break. This is the original stock, you guessed it, I couldn’t held me from putting an original stock on it. Okay, okay, are you done farting you? Don’t worry Jean-Gustave, I still have 5 or 6 times to remember, just to put the threshold on everyone! This is not how you will have more subscribers.

.. Ah? And what are you thinking of then? PRANK! I TEST THE G&G 98K MAUSER, THE 5TH MINUTE WILL SURPRISE YOU In terms of weight, we are 3.3 kg with the original wood, and once the original stock has been adapted, we are 3.

9 kg. Which gives a weight… realistic. Oh fùck. Finally a culmination in my life! I adapted stocks on the Dboy, the Tanaka, on the PPS and on the S&T upgraded TNT, I can finally have a replica that has the weight of a real Mauser! The initial pack included the Mauser in a box; one or two magazines depending where you buy it; a cleaning rod; a manual and a box of BB’s.

I didn’t get the original box since it was a second hand, nor the manual, which was in English. When I received this replica, I REALLY felt like I had the Tanaka… Look at the photos of the original finish.

Finish patina more or less voluntarily by the previous owner, whom I salute in passing, hi Nans! And so when I saw that, it didn’t make me very happy… The paint which is gone to see the metal color mat gray.

.. BOF… The wood which will be rubbed off in places… After the marking that had been put on the stock, I preferred to remove it to match the one I then put on the body. And so I reworked all of that, including the wood.

I still spent a lot of time on it… Good after that there is the handguard that is hidden there. I even put a marking on the front band at the front. “H” front band. And it’s now in spare. So if you have a G&G Mauser – I think whatever version it’s compatible with – maybe I can sell it to you for a pretty miserable price since I no longer use it and only it takes up space.

Note also a small marking on the back “G&G” with a delicious “Taiwan”. For the adaptation of the wood kit, I have already been able to present you a tutorial to proceed with the Mauser 98K from S&T. In fact, the principle for this copy there is the same.

Except that the butt was already dug properly, except that I had to tinker again, since we are not on the same mechanics as on the Tanaka and PPS. And I promise you that I have TROUBLES with the hop-up and its adjustment wheel.

Yes, like that, you don’t necessarily see… But if we zoom a little… You see, the little defect? On the stop here… We are exactly on the same model as on the Springfield M1903 A4 that I have already been able to present to you: to adjust this damn hop-up, you have to release the butt stop, which actually serves as a knob.

Except we can see that it’s not in alignment with an original. Slut. So, I admit that the idea is great to avoid having a wheel that wanders around there, to be able to remain realistic. Except that in the concretization.

.. I can tell you that I shit, I spent at least 3 hours figuring out how to fix this problem. Knowing that this part is a little bit wider than the real one. So I had to cut that damn wheel to reduce its length.

Finally, the screw that serves as a wheel. And so I resigned myself to shifting this stopper, by adding additional splints: one on each side. After, you have to know it’s there. From far, we don’t see it.

Like your d*ck. But at least I’m pretty happy with the result, I managed to adapt this stock without destroying my original piece! Unlike some… I would have greatly preferred to have the same hop-up system as on the other Mausers that I have, that is to say under the rear sight, or even on the Shell Ejecting version from G&G, where it’s a cursor which is under the rear sight.

For the front band, it’s an original end of war. Well, it’s a BNZ43, you tell me… “there is no version of BNZ43 with a stamped and welded front band, it was the ‘H’ front band!” It was a choice I made so that I could vary among all those I already had.

I could either change the front band to take an “H” (like the original one); or change the BNZ marking, but I admit that it’s so well engraved that it would be a shame to hit in it to change it to byf for example.

But no matter, we will say that it’s not original, that it was changed after leaving the factory. Well, here I quibble, if it’s just a story of marking… And as I was launched to make my Mauser beautiful, I decided to strip all of the metal (except the outer barrel) to cold blue it again.

By not forgetting to add some markings. I admit that I spent quite a bit of time, but I am rather proud of the result, especially since I even had fun doing different tan shades, to show that it has been used a little.

So I already know that you are going to ask me the question: the famous question that everyone asks: does an original bayonet pass over it? Originally yes, it goes over it. It will be useless. We won’t hide it, the bayonet put on the barrel, it’s only to make pretty.

You are not going to play airsoft with, or even shoot in a stand. However, an alternative solution is to add this kind of bayonet in 3D printing. I thank 419lab for selling it to me! Yes, that one, I bought it.

And obviously, since we have original dimensions here, it will pass easily. Die, American! Asshole! If it doesn’t pass, just file a little. Ah well to file, I know how, I applied to P0rnhub! I will now point out the biggest defect in this replica, which is a manufacturing defect.

Currently, normally, you will no longer have this problem, since there are kits to correct this problem. I’m talking about the firing pin cap. Originally, it was made of zamak. The problem with zamak is that it will wear out very quickly.

But when I say very quickly, it’s even after a few shots that you will see the patina arriving and the matter going away. There are kits, and I even wonder if G&G has not directly changed this part on their new replicas to prevent the problem from repeating itself.

So this part is made of steel. This avoids wear as much as possible. Afterwards, I don’t know if it was original or not, the previous owner hadn’t changed anything. Maybe the one before had corrected the problem.

.. But this is therefore a point that will absolutely have to be watched. When you buy this replica, ask the seller if the bolt has been modified or not. Attention to the axis of the trigger when you remove your stock, it leaves easily, I had to recreate one with a nail after losing it! It’s not complicated but it’s just a little boring.

.. I chose, for once, to keep the rail intended for the ZF41. Why ? Because maybe one day I can add one… But don’t fall into the trap, don’t take the ZF41 offered by G&G. It has NOTHING to do with a ZF41.

Look at the difference. This is true, this is false. So don’t fall in love for it. At the moment there is no cheap reproduction of ZF41 scope. Alas, you will have to buy in 3 or 4 digits for the price.

End of 3 digits and start of 4 digits (in $), it costs a lot. So if we add in addition the storage box… it will be 2 months rent. Just for the scope… After, it’s up to you… See instead…(pluto in french) Pluto? It’s Mickey’s dog! Why are you talking about him? Because Walt Disney was a Nazi Okay, I’ll stop there, I don’t like to polemical.

.. You don’t like Paul or Mickey. What are you hiding there… I didn’t understand anything. On the other hand, there are reproductions of ZF39, with mounting in the form of turrets, or with a lateral support.

I would like to put a side mount. You see, it costs at least 400€ without postage or customs fees. And finally, the last little house tip: here we have the extractor, put a little bit of glue on its fixing.

This will prevent you, if you disassemble your bolt, from losing it, because it would fall on its own. And it even happened to me once to have to put it back in while the bolt was not removed. It wasn’t disassembled.

We will now go to the chrony test at 0.20g when it was around 15°C. Then we will go to the shooting test at 15m and 35m, with red Nuprol 3.0 gas and 0.45g BB’s. And then we’ll go to a range test. It’s live, these are things that happen.

There were two BB’s, it’s live, these are things that happen. So, I could have used 0.43g, but I preferred to use the heaviest BB’s I had. For gas, I tried several gases and the best I could test was Nuprol 3.

0, so redgas. It’s strong! And in fact it’s because we need a great power (respecting the 450 fps) since we notice chrony that the power is losing quickly. So if we start at 450fps, at the end of the magazine we will be at maybe 350fps.

Again, it’s good, the 0.45g BB’s can be propelled. But if you take a beefier gas, you will start from maybe 380fps, except that behind, you will arrive at… 250fps… 200fps… I can assure you that my first shooting tests were not at all conclusive, the BB’s fell to 10m.

At 0.30g. It’s not fun! The regularity leaves something to be desired on this replica during the shooting… And we could see that the BB’s started barely at 35m, when others started at more than 50m.

While it’s the same BB’s and it’s the same gas. Mystery… In fact to be honest, I’ve been working on this review for months, and I was afraid to present this replica, because it’s completely random. That one, precisely, is difficult to be able to play with in game.

Unless maybe you upgrade it, change stuff, like the hop-up. No matter how much I fix it, there’s not much going on inside. Maybe a design flaw, I would have to put my nose back in, but I admit that I don’t want to take it apart again.

In any case, for this replica, completely forget the 0.20g, you need HEAVY BB’s! Heavy as your jokes! Here is what concludes this video review, I hope you enjoyed it! If so, as usual, feel free to put a blue thumb, a comment, subscribe and share this video.

If you want to support me, just like Victor was able to do when making this video, thank you for his help; well you can do it by following the Tipeee and Mytip links in the description. And you can also find the link to subscribe to the channel, by becoming a subscriber.

You will have some privileges, like previews or photos of making off. As for me, I’ll see you soon for new airsoft, uniform and VIP videos! Bye! Directed by Neo035 With the help of Victor (framing) Thank you to all my Tipers and subscribers!





LEAVE A REPLY

Please enter your comment!
Please enter your name here