Hello everyone and welcome to this new airsoft gun video review. Today, I have the honor to present you with a replica that is extremely view on the battlefield, to wonder why I didn’t introduce it before, I named the Thompson M1A1 from Cyma.
First of all, I want to thank Destockage Games, partner of this video, which by the way, will offer you a little something. To see what it is, you will have to go to the end of the video, here is the timing.
.. In your ass! No, we’ll have to watch ALL the video to find out what it is! It won’t even be at the end! It’s been almost 10 years since this replica came out, almost identical copy of the Thompson from Marui but with less “noble” materials, to have a cheaper result.
A finish and shooting performance worse… But remember that at the time, there was only the Thompson Marui that was expensive in France. So this newly released replica in the late 2000s has been good for a lot of airsoft players How did it feel good? It’s disgusting what you say! The original name is CM.
033, since the manufacturer is Cyma. And it is distributed by Cybergun, which provides its own box, it will have been “cybergunised” and in, so we will have: a record with French, two magazines, the replica, a cleaning rod.
The rest, don’t keep it, it’s useless, we’ll have to replace these elements, I won’t even talk about it. If you want to see what it is, go see the unboxing, the link is in the description. But what I find very cool is the pack now includes 2 magazines.
Hi-cap of 420 BB’s certainly, but 2 magazines anyway. Even though it feels like it’s product placement for Old El Paso I don’t have ears anymore, that’s it. But unlike basic CYMA magazines, they have a good shape, and they are metal! When I speak of good shape, it isn’t to talk about my health, but to talk about the original magazines that CYMA made with the replica, who had that mouth.
It can be seen that the shape of the top at this level was AWFUL. And besides, they were plastic. To Cknow… to Cknow, bravo… To know that Camembert magazines of the other version of the Thompson, that I don’t have, are compatible.
Although this isn’t realistic, since they are normally reserved for the Thompson M1928, and don’t pass on the M1A1. Basically, ALL the magazines of the market pass on. Those provided in the box obviously, Marui 420 BB’s, Marui 190 BB’s, so short version.
We also have the Snow Wolf (I had them but I sold them), and there are also the magazines from King Arms. There are only magazines provided for the gas version from WE that don’t pass on it. Normal, it’s not the same technology.
So we have Marui, CYMA, Snow Wolf and King Arms. ALL goes on! That’s exactly what I said to your mother yesterday. The battery to be used will be either in 8.4V or 9.6v NiMh version. I chose to take a LiPo from Energy Airsoft, it is a 7.
4V in 25C, 1400mAh. In fact, the only limit you will have (obviously, don’t take 11,1V, otherwise it will explode your Gearbox), it will be the place in the stock. Unlike the Marui or King Arms, a large type battery won’t pass.
Since we can see here that the location to put the battery is at that level. So choose your battery well. The battery gets into the back of the stock. To do this, it’s exactly like on the Marui: you open the hatch, you pull and rotate.
I can’t show it to you, you will understand after why. So you can change your battery without tools, as there will be no need to unscrew anything. Attention, this remark is valid only with the original stock in ABS.
So the top screw is totally fake. Do not try to unscrew it. The stock will have a foam wedge on the top, to avoid the resonance as much as you handle your Thompson. And we have a metal structure on this level to solidify the whole, especially since we have a part here quite fine! In addition to adding a little weight.
But I didn’t resist the call of the kit wood, since there are to go on, whether the brand CYMA or other, you find what is still available. And let’s say that the quality is up to the price: I paid 70€ with postage.
So I wasn’t expecting something really bad. Indeed, I wasn’t disappointed… I had to use my best friend Dremel to adapt the original buttplate, since the one provided in the kit is that one. We can see: zero screws above; a screw underneath, which is an Allen screw, and we don’t have the hatch for the oiler.
In addition to the fact that it is a cover buttplate! In addition it was necessary to finish the job for the fastenings of the strap, since the holes were barely hollowed out for the screws… The screws, it wasn’t even good model, since there is none in the pack, and the original ones are not suitable.
So I had to put some wood screws myself, which will have to be repainted urgently! What I have not done yet. And I chose to put the screw on the side here, it wasn’t there originally, I had to take the kit.
There wasn’t even the hole, so I lost some more time with that. But the main challenge with the adaptation of the buttplate, the challenge wasn’t to dig the wood, since that I know how to do. Already we lose the fastening system from the inside on top, I had to remove it, so now it only holds by a point, below.
Well, it’s stalled inside so it doesn’t move. But above all, this screw, it isn’t the same that retains the 2 kits! How to do… There I had to think a little. First, remove the rotation system that is reproduced on the kit wood, which is not bad.
In fact I had to remove the tube inside the stock, which itself, is mounted on spring, which serves to make the rocker. Tube which is the screw thread to receive the Allen screw. So by removing all that, I had a gaping hole in the butt.
How? Well, I put some Pattex paste, and then I screwed the screw. It’s a lot of repetitions that, “Pattex paste, screw screw”. Basically, I recreated the thread with the Pattex. I took the opportunity to put the Pattex everywhere, which avoids the passage to have play in the buttplate.
And here is the result. I admit, it’s not necessarily very clean, but I don’t care, it’s not visible, and it’s effective, my buttplate doesn’t move. And we can see that the location for the battery is still really better! There is space! So I think that a large type can pass and I chose to take this battery, the Rolls from Energy Airsoft batteries: 7.
4V, 20C for 3450mAh. With that, if you fall out of battery, I pay you a drink! So I recreated the thread here, it should take a few years. Note that we have a long cable length, with a fuse. Advantage: it secures; disadvantage: it takes up space.
The original color of the original kit is like that. But with the usual method of black marker + alcohol to burn on a cloth, there is still way to do something. So if you are not necessarily DIY and want a nice result, then do like me, use the black marker.
I had no problem to fit the handguard in the front, and the same for the handle. By cons, be careful, it is relatively fragile. As you can see on the videos of my friend Chris Adams Custom, who wanted to adapt a real handle, it turns out that the handle here is bigger than the original.
So the real kit won’t pass unless you have made a very heavy change. But it’s very thin on the edges here. So go easy when you install it, otherwise it will break. After I put more or less deliberately on the wood to skate, and I spent the color tint cherry.
Well it doesn’t show too much since there is already a finish on the original wood, it is still pretty. I then spent Fondur, then linseed oil with turpentine, mixed 50/50. Which gives a rather good result.
Only drawback of this kit wood, in addition to the buttock that made me shit, is that I find the handguard in the front too high, too big. The Thompson M1A1 from CYMA weighs 3kg when an original is 4,7kg.
That’s with the original ABS kit. With the kit wood, in fact it won’t change much… Maybe 100 or 200g more… but as the wood is light, we don’t feel the difference. It’s almost 2kg to be realistic, but at the end of a day of airsoft, you will realize that finally, it isn’t so bad, it will do less pain to the arms! On the other hand for the morphology, it isn’t made for the small arms.
.. unless to play it sentinel operation. Chief, it’s secure! There are some who will say to me “ah you have not the right!” Well if, it’s a real, I was at the 3rd Marine Infantry Regiment! The advantage of this kit wood is that the touch will be much better, and it will resonate much less in stock! The replica has markings more or less realistic and completely white, which is foul.
How to hide them? The black marker method will be complicated, since it will be frankly, you will have to color everything, or just color the letters, but you will overflow. In fact, the only method I can advise you is to paint over it.
Because if you sand, you will lose the markings, which are engraved in the paint and a little on the metal. So if you sand, you will lose them. Which would be a shame, since there are some who are good.
We have on the left side: Thompson Submachine gun, 6mm caliber M1A1, No 1244194. It’s stupid, there is only half that is realistic here. On the right side, at the same level, we have Auto-Ordnance Corporation, Worcester, Massachusetts, USA, Made in China.
Too bad… Why Made in China? Thompson, it’s not American? I made the comment with the Thompson WE, since we have almost the same markings: Worcester? No, there were no factories before 1945 there. On the top, we have the official Thompson logo, since it is under license Thompson/Cybergun and US PROPERTY.
American property. And we have a last serial number on the right side here, which you can remove. I didn’t do it to show you, I think I’ll remove it after. The lower receiver is plastic, will have markings, which are molded in it.
Like you in your pants… you’re well molded! I don’t have pants… When you receive your replica, a small cleaning of the gun will be necessary. By the way speaking of barrel, a precision barrel would not be too much, you will see after why.
The inner barrel, originally, is 301 mm long for a diameter of 6.05mm minimum. So it’s up to you to put a 6.02. Regarding the sights, the eyelet will be adjustable in… rise only. No adjustment in the side, or you will break your sight.
We have small clicks. Honestly, it won’t help you much. The handlebar at the front is quite massive! It’s still quite complicated to aim for a 40m head with such a big organ. Speaking of organ, do you want to see mine? EH STOP, do you have something that bothers you? You want to talk about it ? If you talk about homosexuality, don’t worry, it won’t come out of the Internet.
The hop-up is adjustable thanks to a notched wheel located on the ejection window, as on all other Thompson AEG models. I have not yet dismantled the internal of this replica to be able to show it out of the box, but I will advise you to do it when you receive it.
To clean it completely, and then because it may be necessary to downgrade it. Finally… upgrade with the barrel, and downgrade with the spring. Indeed, we will now go to the chrony test at 0.20g. The replica, like the real one, has selectors on the left side.
At the back, safety and fire; At the front: semi and full. Be careful with these selectors, they are quite fragile. I have already heard a lot of stories from people who had lost at least one of the two selectors.
Why ? Because the screw that holds it is mounted on a part that is plastic. This plastic part, if it breaks (because it is fine, like your c*ck), then the selector won’t be retained for anything at all.
And be careful, when you go disassemble your replica, on each selector, we have a small spring and a tiny white mushroom, which allows you to have the clicks when you change position. This little spring, when you dismount the selectors, will inevitably jump.
So, put yourself in a place where you can easily find them, it will save you from looking for two hours. Kind don’t do that on the ground for example! If you lose them, the selectors will move by themselves.
.. It will be necessary to change the spring inside if you want to go down below 350 fps, as I want to do. To do this, either change the spring for an SP90, or cut one or two turns of the existing spring, since it seeks to lower the initial power by 30 fps.
Although some associations accept the 400 fps in semi. So to you to see. We will now go to the 15m shooting test on a paper target, then 35m on a target pan, then a range test. All at 0.25g, Max reach: 45m, hop-up not honed.
It confirms what I said to you: it is an excellent base, but it will have to be upgraded. Even if the original Thompson will allow you to make excellent results on the battlefield, but you can do better.
Always. At the level of the look, it must be admitted, except the kit wood, it wasn’t completely like that. So… follow me. Aluminum spray paint, after removing the wood kit obviously. Aluminum paint, gray paint, black paint, then re-black paint as the first layout was poorly applied, and finally we finish with steel wool, which I spent on black paint.
Thus, the edges were slightly put forward. We already have natural wear because the paint doesn’t necessarily good, but it’s natural, you’re not going to put screwdrivers or big sandpaper on the edges, and have a huge difference between metal and paint.
Because of course, don’t cold blue this replica. The original Thompson’s were phosphated/parkerized, so they were gray. Which means that we don’t have a deep black, as I have steel wool on it. We have the gray that reappears slightly, and on the big shocks, we have outright the aluminum paint that reappears.
But in any case, if I still have a shock on the shock, then it will be the original black paint that will reappear. and BTW, all markings have been preserved. But I have a point on which I am not confident.
The barrel here still seems as fragile as on all other models. Whether at King Arms or at Marui. So be careful with your outer barrel, it is fragile, especially at this level. Since it’s still zamak, we don’t change a team that loses.
.. On the price we are originally at 179.99€. Yeah, so 180€… No, thanks to me, you earn 1 cent! Skinflint! At the moment this video is released, there will be an exceptional 10% discount on this Thompson (with promo code) on the total price of the replica.
Because you can find cheaper elsewhere, and it won’t necessarily in France, so you will pay the shipping and customs fees, while here you will only have the postage to pay. And besides, if you order a bag of BB’s or a BB-loader with, the shipping costs will be free (in France).
Hey, what am I doing here? I become a salesman? No, when there is a good plan, I prefer to talk to you about it than to keep it to myself. Here’s what concludes this airsoft gun video review, I hope you liked it.
If so, don’t hesitate to leave a blue thumb, comment, subscribe and share this video. I would like to thank again my partners Destockage Games and Energy Airsoft who trust me for the batteries. You can find the link to get this baby in the description of this video.
After, I talk about Energy airsoft, but nothing prevents you from using the original battery, or any other battery of your choice, that’s your convenience obviously. For my part, I’ll see you soon for new airsoft gun video review, uniforms and VIPs presentation! Bye! Directed by Neo035 With the support of Destockage Games and Energy Airsoft Thanks to Victor for the framing Thanks to my Tipeee and Mytip Tipeurs!