Hello everyone and welcome to this new airsoft gun video review. Today, I have the honor to present the new BAR 1918 A2 from S&T upgraded by TNT Studio. I have already been able to present the ACM BAR which is there, I always have it for the moment, video that you appreciated, I know it.
We will try to stay at the same level! But this time we will avoid the counter of jokes, you will do it yourself if you want! Slacker No, we are in a video with serious gear, I want to show that I have evolved! You stay the same, you won’t evolve, you’re not a pokémon.
.. So you already know everything. Here is what concludes this video of… Ah? Like that, you’re BARking [breaking] up? No, you’re right, I have to introduce you to Raymond. Raymond? Yes, Raymond Barre.
(french politician) You should have gone… How he got me BARck… SO, more seriously. S&T resumed manufacturing the BAR by having resumed the plans of ACM, ACM and JS Tactical (or AY) having stopped their production a few years ago.
Since that moment, it’s very difficult to find BAR in airsoft… Or so in second hand. Well, I know, I’m an asshole, now I have two, but more for a long time, since the ACM model is already sold to my friend James.
James, make good use of it! Let’s start with the box: Sober, as usual, we are on a black box, like all replicas from S&T. It’s even sponsored by UFC it looks like… (french consumer association) It has a foam interior, with the cut-out shape for the parts that make up the kit.
The bipod will be delivered disassembled and the handle will be delivered mounted. We will see together that in fact, it will needed to reverse these two things. No battery in the pack… A manual will be provided, but there will be no exploded view.
Manual that is pretty basic, they really take you for idiots. Connect the battery to the “click”. There is not even a click when you plug the plug… If you choose a version upgraded by TNT-Studio, as is the case here, the original parts will be delivered in the box.
Namely a precision barrel with its hop-up seal, with a piston and piston head and a cylinder. And I think that’s all, anyway these pieces will allow you to backtrack if you ever change your mind. Or it makes you spare parts if you get a worse gun than the original here.
Obviously, TNT-Studio will take care of cleaning the gearbox, something that will have to do if you take the original version, and to stall, that’s why I advise you to take the upgraded version by TNT-Studio.
It’s also, by chance, the version offered on the SWIT Airsoft website! For a price of $399, or $450, it depends when you watch this video and if there is a promotion in progress or not. I was talking about the handle.
It’s delivered already in place on the BAR. If you want to make WW2, remove it. Yes, you’ll say me there was handle in WW2, but it arrived at the very end of the war, but there was none in Europe, or then prove it with a photo, but beware, a real one in Europe, not in the Pacific.
For the Pacific, we could have some. Since the handle was finished late 1944, so the time it was delivered with the BARs that go with it, the war was already over in Europe. But if you want to be in 1944, including Normandy 1944, the handle must be removed.
But if you delay in removing it, by force of manipulation, as the handle moves, will have marks on the painting, since it will leave. So the day you remove that handle, you will see that there is a trace.
It would be stupid to reproduce the same mistake as in the movie “Saving Private Ryan”: Reiben has a very nice BAR with the mark of a handful that there was after the war. Pity. To dismantle it, in theory, you have to remove the screw here, to be able to remove the handle from the front, then to remove the two screws here and there, and so we have the two hulls that separate each on their side.
That’s the theory, the practice is that I never managed to disassemble this fucking handle, without going through the front by dismounting all this part here, since they stuck these parts. So impossible to disassemble properly.
Knowing this, to disassemble, it’s not complicated, there is no trap, you just have to dismount from front to back. It’s stupid because the ACM handle disassembled very easily… The known weakness of the airsoft BAR, whatever the brand, is the join between the outer barrel and the body.
The problem will necessarily be reproduced here. Out of the box, when I received the gun, there was a big gap. So if you hold your replica by the handguard at the front and you let go of the back, we could see here that it moves, which is not good at all.
As this doesn’t really inspire confidence, so I chose to disassemble the replica and add a layer of chatterton on the part of the outer barrel that is inserted into the body. It’s maintained by 2 screws on this side, be sure to tighten them, but not too much, it remains zamak, it would be stupid to break the outer barrel.
The base is pot metal… So if you sit on your BAR, you’ll break it. So if you have a strock of the BAR, sit somewhere else! Even keeping it on the sling can damage it… So avoid big shocks when you hold it on the sling.
Don’t do archery with it. Be careful when you put your piece of chatterton, not to block the hop-up unit, which is here, so therefore, I advocate some things: 1) Remove the handle and never use it. And 2) avoid using the bipod as much as possible.
There I put it to look pretty. But if you are called to move often with your BAR in game or in reenactment, it adds just 1kg at the end of the barrel. It would be a shame to damage it because of it. By the way, can we say that a bipod for a BAR.
.. is a Underbarnts? Cool! The point of balance, it’s there! The bipod is realistic, but of the second type. Indeed, we have a setting above that happened at the very end of the war… So more reason not to put the bipod if you want to do Normandy for example.
It’s adjustable in height thanks to butterfly screws. It’s a big bipod. And it can fold back also thanks to butterfly screws. To install the bipod, nothing is simpler: just unscrew the flash hidder here in the opposite direction of usual.
Usually to screw, we will turn clockwise, it will be counterclockwise. Not to put it, it will save you weight, since this baby is a little over 6kg. Basically, it’s not a gay thing! So it’s a butch thing, isn’t it? humpf blablble What are you saying ? Stop to gaBARble.
.. Well, I admit, that one was funnier in French… Let’s talk about magazines now. They are exactly like those of ACM, JS Tactical and AY: they are theoretically 190 BB’s, but that’s more than 150 BB’s.
And it will have to knur quite often since the loading shaft is quite small. So basically, you can shoot between 20 and 30 BB’s before knurling. On the other hand, in my first video, I said that it was necessary to put them in low cap, but don’t do it finally.
Hi-Cap is good. It’s maracas, but otherwise you will really get bored and it can be expensive. Since to have additional magazines, count between 15 and 20€ with the shipping costs. So a lot of effort for having only 20 BB’s.
.. Is it worth the cost…? A hole on the side is always there, to be able to knur, with a special key, while there is the wheel below. A key to knurl. It’s a wrench, we agree? Key not supplied with the pack, and that will be strictly useless since duplication with the wheel.
So plug the hole. The replica works with a battery, which will be stored in the buttstock. The problem is that to access the compartment, you must remove the 2 screws on the back. And for that, there is no other solution than to use a screwdriver.
Doing this in game is dead. So we have the battery, a fuse, and then it’s hooked up directly to the engine. For the battery, I recommend the battery from Energy Airsoft, this is a Lipo 1600mAh, in 25C, 7.
4V, which will give us a realistic and ideal cadence. Replica Original (from the Hickok45 channel) Don’t go on the 11.1V, it’s not worth the cost, but this battery will be compatible, whether you have upgraded version or not.
On the other hand, I noticed that the battery compartment was a bit wider than the one at ACM. That’s quite practical, for the ACM, it was imperative batteries “stick” while here we can afford to have a battery a little more rectangular.
Well it’s not very deep either. In any case, Energy Airsoft is French equipment: I advise. At the level of response, it’s not good… It’s a design problem. We have 2 slats between which will pass a small steel nipple, the small nipple will be connected to the top of the trigger, and when it will pass between the two slats, the contact will be made.
Problem: The slats are soft. Basically, they were even a little too far, I had to disassemble to bring them slightly. So, as we have a very slight lateral play on the trigger, depending on the position in which I was: if I pressed to the right up, it shot; but if I pressed up to the left, it didn’t shoot.
And I don’t know why, I burned the fuse from the first BB’s. Oh, I didn’t know that you so easily going crazy… The addition of your damage may be salty… Normal… I am SALT BAR. The replica has a selector here, where you would think there are 3 positions.
Error: there are only two. We have the “safety” position at the back, which mechanically blocks the trigger. And we have the firing position in the front: whether on position A or position F. There are no different positions, it’s actually ONE position.
So we will call this selector “Robert”. Robert, we’ll put him in safety. So he doesn’t shoot. And you would think that Robert has a son is names “pas tir”. Thus, we can say that Robert “pas tir” son. [Robert Pattison] It would be necessary to find a system to create two positions with a switch, since in fact it was a cadence selector at the time.
So notice to bricolos! I’m sure we can find some… at the local BAR. Attention also to the small spring and the little mushroom that will be on the selector, it will jump very far if you don’t care when disassembling.
So be careful, cover well with your hand (after turning the BAR) when removing the selector. The lever is not very well adjusted, it was better on the ACM… I tried to do better, but it was not necessarily a good idea, so the best is the enemy good here, don’t do anything.
I think this is the first time you say to do nothing. You look serious… You think you’re a BAR-ython? The replica has some markings: we have on the side, with the selector, and on the rear sight. There is progress compared to the ACM, where we didn’t have markings of the sight.
On the other hand we have regression compared to the JS Tactical, which has markings on the top of the body. The perfect BAR still doesn’t exist… The wood parts are made of wood. A little light on the other hand, it’s wood of crate; and with an ugly varnish.
For the handguard in the front, I removed the polish with Dremel to use my usual magic powder. Fondur, linseed oil, then a layer of “vintage patina”. And for the stock, I chose to pass it in Bakelite.
I understand that adapting an original was difficult. So I was cunning. Yes, Bakelite stock arrived in 1942, so most WW2 BARs had Bakelite stocks. So I repainted the stock wood with its varnish with black spray paint, which I then rubbed with the cloth to polish and give it a plastic appearance.
Did you polish your bar? And with the use, I’ll put black paint on it to hide the original color of the varnish that can reappear. But the more impacts, the more I’ll be happy. And in terms of weight, as the wood is wooden crate, it’s realistic compared to a Bakelite stock! Go ahead, change the subject.
.. You stay at the same point, you bubbled? I thought, “I won’t scour it this time. As a reminder, I stripped my first BAR from ACM, with the aim of cold blue it. Lack of a chance, the blue I used didn’t hang, and in a sense, all the better, since the BARs of the day were phosphated.
I thought, “I’m not going to strip it to repaint it over, just repaint it directly.” So I bought spray paint, and I still had to strip it… Since the paint I bought was crappy, resin-based, and even after 48 hours of drying, it stuck.
So stripping and we take the original color, that is to say black. Incidentally, the chemical stripping and rubbing with a cloth lustered the original paint from matt black to glossy black. I took the opportunity to remove the paint on the edges, you will understand after why.
Then I passed the Humbrol color 53 paint, on the whole body (except the wood parts of course) to quickly after rubbing with a rag. To reappear the edges and avoid using additional paint. Then I protected the set with the “vintage patina”, normally it’s for the wood it also works on Humbrol paint.
The result is really BARfect. We can see that the bottom (“bas” in french) BAR on the picture is the king. Yes, bas-BAR is the king. At the time of disassembly, which will be mandatory if you order from SWIT Airsoft, since TNT Studio leaves the original M110 spring inside, so you will shoot at 390 fps.
So it will have to change that. Well you will run into a problem that everyone will have. The recoil spring that there is in the tube here, at the level utility/trouble, it’s at the max on the trouble side.
Usefulness: have a force feedback on the cocking lever when you manipulate it to access the hop-up… And level annoying, it’s necessary to put again the guide rod correctly to be able to put the pin in the front.
And it’s adjusted to the millimeter with the guide rod of the spring that is here. It will first put the guide rod and the whole set to the front, then reset the pin without forcing. If you have to force, then it’s badly put.
After, the disassembly of the entire replica is not complicated, there is no trap either, just pay attention to small springs that can jump. The sight is adjustable up… Weird way to say… But it’s ok! But the English don’t have this problem for once.
.. …and lateral from it with knobs, which have a spring and a small ball, so we have notches that can be heard. By cons, do we talk about the micro-screw that is missing at the back of the sight? A small screw here, a small screw there in less to save money? It’s bad to SCREW that.
This way of doing things is really a blow to being next to your BARsket when you use it. We will now go to the test shot on a target at 15m, then on a stove at 50m. I’ll even compare with the old ACM BAR so you can see the difference.
To differentiate them, I put the bipod on the new one, but not on the old one. To know that I aim 1m above and my hop-up is almost at maximum. To know that I must BARely counteraim, I aim very slightly to the right to counter the wind that I have.
Go have a steady sight with something that is 7kg at the end of the arms! We can see that the old ACM was not bad shooting, even if it scatters past the 35m. Unlike the upgraded S&T version. We still have a base internal barrel that is really long, so even original, it will be accurate.
By cons, the noise is really different between the two, there is no debate, I prefer the upgraded version! After, if you don’t want this replica for airsoft or reenactment, there may be other uses available to you.
A pillar of BAR Bard-rail [Guard-rail] Or a roof bar. But beware, don’t do it yourself at home. Well, that’s nice all that, you made word jokes in French, but I think you can make us at least one for our English friends! Well yes, among the English, we don’t say BAR but “B.
A.R”. Well… not complicated, I was born for this kind of situation. “Born to B A R” Joke Counter: 28 Here’s what concludes this airsoft gun video review, I hope you’ll like it! If so, don’t hesitate to leave a blue thumb, a comment, to subscribe and share this video.
I would like to thank SWIT Airsoft, Airsoft Entrepot and Energy Airsoft for their valuable support, you can find in the description all the links of the elements that I use, whether the BB’s, the battery or even the gun.
Thank you to Mr Roux, Antoine and Victor for their help on the script with some nice jokes, and Victor and Maud for framing me in the shooting test. If you too, you want to support me in your own way, you can do it via my page Tipeee, the link is in the description.
This will allow you to help me both on the bottom but also on the shape of my videos. As for me, I’ll see you soon for a new video review of airsoft guns, Denix replica, uniform or VIP presentation. Bye! Directed by Neo035 With the support of SWIT Airsoft, Energy Airsoft and Airsoft Entrepot Thanks to Mr Roux, Victor, Maud and Antoine for their precious help on the script Thanks to my Tipeurs Bilkouille, Philippe, Florian, Tommy, DerpyH and Chun